In our own family calendar a star marks the Christmas dinner parties that until last year my mother and father used to have regularly for all the members of our rather big family....They can never happen any more now that my father has gone....
The evening began at the front door...opened by old Hunt, the butler. Hunt had served my family off and on for more than fifty years....
There was Annie, the old waitress, with her black dress and white organdy apron and high fluted cap. There was the white colonial dining room with... the three Gilbert Stewart portraits on the walls and the old silver tankard which George Washington gave my great-grandfather, Oliver Wolcott-- and there was my father, courtly and gracious and happy at his end of the table, seated under the portrait of his father. I can see him now, as dinner progressed, smiling down the length of the table at my mother.
The table itself, with the heavy white damask tablecloth which had belonged to my mother's grandmother and which had woven in it the design of her house on the Hudson-- the tall rococo candelabras....
Phil Thompson always proposed a toast which we drank to our one-eyed laundress, "Old Mrs Smith," who made the plum puddings, and good they were with their lighted brandy sauce! And then my father, looking so adorable in his immaculate evening clothes, would rise and make a speech of welcome to us all....
How simple it all was and how charming.
--Dorothy Draper (1889-1969), Entertaining Is Fun! (1941)